Active TopicsActive Topics  Display List of Forum MembersMemberlist  CalendarCalendar  Search The ForumSearch  HelpHelp
  RegisterRegister  LoginLogin
Build & Compability Questions
 CyberPower Forum : Hardware : Build & Compability Questions
Message Icon Topic: Gaming Rig Basics(Topic Closed Topic Closed) Post Reply Post New Topic
Page  of 7 Next >>
Author Message
MalVeauX
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 11 Aug 2008
Location: United States
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1155
bullet Topic: Gaming Rig Basics
    Posted: 28 Nov 2008 at 9:07am
Instead of having this topic being continually bumped by supporters in order to reach a greater audience, we at CyberPower decided to make it a sticky. It will also serve as a tribute for the hard work that MalveauX has put into this forum and community. It has been a long time coming.

original post by MalveauX:


Hey folks,

Thread Update Status: Added Display Information, Mice & Keyboard Information.
Last Updated: Nov 30, 2008
 
What you can find in this thread: 
 
Part I: If you're looking to get a budget (cheap) gaming machine (2008) that performs just as well as an expensive gaming machine, this thread is for your interest.
 
Part II: Display Devices are important since that's the only thing you actually see that comes from your awesome gaming machine. If it's small and doesn't have good properties, you're not getting all the goodness from your machine and it's wasting itself. TV's and Monitors are covered.
 
Part III: Input Devices, ie, your keyboard & mouse. Quality is important here as they are your only source of commands to the machine. A good gaming rig will do what you tell it, but if your mouse and keyboard don't respond well or are not comfortable, the machine will only be able to do what it's told, and if that's lost in translation, your result is a bad experience in gaming. This is especially true in online gaming where there's no pause button to readjust what you're using.

Part IV: Additional information, threads, etc, to help with your machine.



      To help dispell things that may be misleading, a gaming machine really isn't all that different from a normal computer. The difference comes down to the synergy between the components. But, it does not take the absolute latest technology to run these games well. In fact, 3 year old technology still plays todays demanding games (like Crysis) with ease. It all comes down to what you're using and how it works with the other parts--and that's synergy.

      Just some notes: budget refers to it being affordable. But gaming means it's not going to be entry level on every component; there will be minimums.

      See, gaming machines don't need certain things, and budget systems usually lack what it takes to be a good gaming machine. Mainly, that comes down to the graphics card. Modern games run fine on any old dual core these days. But the newest titles don't run great on just any old videocard. And even more noticeable is that you can't turn on all the eye candy and use higher resolutions in these games on just any old videocard. If you have a big display or you game on an HD capable television (which you can, if you didn't know, just like a console system, at high res!), you'll want those higher resolutions, antialaising, filtering, large textures, etc. They make the new games look so much better. And that's one of the reasons most of us even use PCs for gaming, rather than a console.
       


      Doing it yourself:

      And as always, if you're comfortable with computers, or you really want to get into the guts of one, I always recommend you build it yourself with individual parts. But if you can't or don't want to for whatever reasons you have, buying a premade is ok, and that's the point of making configurations. You can get the best deals and best selection if you build the system yourself, so keep that an option if you're willing. It's not difficult and can be rewarding. Plus, you gain some knowledge to help troubleshoot things yourself, knowing what it took to put it together.
       

       
      Part I:

      Basic minimums and suggestions when it comes to a gaming machine (as of Nov, 2008):

        CPU:

    • Any Dual Core will essentially work for a gaming machine. There is a difference in some titles when it comes to a more powerful CPU (like a Quadcore, or the new i7 and Dragon chips), but we're talking about exclusive titles (like Crysis for example) where building around one game is not wise. The performance difference in your games between a 2.6ghz dual core and a 3.3ghz dual core is insignificant unless using a very high end graphics card or SLI/Crossfire setup. The majority of games are already going to run so blazingly fast and easy with all the bells and whistles on, due to your powerful Graphics Cards, that you won't notice the difference on the CPU side of things. What to take form this is that yes, more powerful CPU's will yield more performance, but that doesn't mean you need them to play your games at higher settings. This is one of the biggest places money is lost in a gaming machine, overspending on more CPU than you actually need. It's good to get as high as you can afford, but there's a limit where you pass over the affordable stuff that performs well, and enter into the expensive stuff that doesn't perform all that much different. And something to always keep in mind is that overclocking is available and you can squeeze more out of cheaper solutions that way, simply by adding a decent but cheap cooling sollution. The best overclocking CPUs are those with unlocked modifiers, which in Intel terms usually results in the term "extreme" and in AMD terms, usually results in the term "black edition."

      Minimum CPU: any Dual Core!

      Suggestions: AMD5000+ (2.6ghz dual core), AMD6000+ (3.0ghz dual core). If you can get a black edition of either of these CPUs, you're in business. Very cheap and fantastic gaming performance. There's no need to spend twice the money on an Intel equivalent. The Intel equivalent will perform a little better, but not worth twice the price.

      Quadcore systems can be had for cheap. There are two awesome chips for the price that can be had in a gaming machine on the cheap side of things. Quadcores at their base clock are actually not much better, and often times worse than a higher clocked dual core when it comes to games (due to games not all supporting multicores like this quite yet, but more will as time goes by). The two chips to look at are the Intel Q6600 and the AMD 9850 Black Edition. Both are highly overclockable. The Q6600 is more difficult to overclock because it has a locked CPU modifier (at 9x) which means you can only overclock it by increasing the FSB speed (which also effects your RAM timings, and thus requires all parts of the system to be tweaked or it will be unstable). The 9850 black edition has an unlocked modifier however, meaning, you can overclock it without having to change any other parts of your system or worry about timings. You can just clock it up an additional 400mhz to 600mhz on base air cooling just by setting it's clock modifier to 15x for example; so long it's properly cooled, it'll be stable and the rest of your system won't be affected by the overclock (much easier, less stability problems). Cost wise, the AMD setup actually rings in a bit cheaper now (due to motherboards costing less on AMD's side of things). Both require better motherboards for the overclocks, but it's well worth it if you want a mid-range to near high-end gaming machine but still keeping it on the cheaper side of things. The Quadcore systems will generally run you around $1,000 for a good gaming machine with the proper components simply with the more potent CPU power.
    •  

      Suggested: The AMD 9850 Black Edition Phenom (125watt) and a 3rd party cooler (MaxOrb comes to mind). Here at CyberPower, it's only $130 more than a Dualcore system with the exact same components, but you get an easy to overclock Quadcore instead. Highly recommended. And this is a high end CPU.

       
      Graphics Card:

    • The most critical component of your gaming machine is the graphics card. This is where we do not get the cheapest thing that `works' but rather the best performer in it's price range. This changes constantly as prices fluctuate rapidly. However, certain cards will simply always be the best performer for their cost. There's a difference between budget cards and muscle cards and the aboslute most high end cards. We want muscle cards. They're the best bang for the buck. ATI & nVidia are your choices here, and neither are `better' than the other strictly.

      ATI: The minimum card you shoot look at from ATI is the HD4850. For the money, anything less is a waste. You do not need the 1gig version, get the 512mb version (which is about $130, $119 currently at NewEgg). No other single card in it's price range can beat it. If you need something less costly in your gaming machine, consider not building a gaming machine and go console. At the $200 range, the HD4870 finally is available (NewEgg). Again, go with what you can afford, so if you can actually get the HD4870, go for it. It's a great card. The HD4870x2 is the beastiest card from ATI at this moment, but it comes at a price that is not reasonable (close to $500) for the performance gain--it's overkill on the majority of games (meaning, it will not make any noticable difference compared to the HD4850 in most games), and the few that it does outperform everything in a noticable way, are not worth spending this much money on in the first place (ie, Crysis). Do not bother with any card under the HD4850 (ie, nothing below this number, ATI has an easy to follow card name progression, if the card's number is less than 4850, do not bother with it). If you do, consider this: many motherboards come with an onboard video chipset, the Radeon 3200/3300. This chipset will play WoW and other games  just fine, and it comes on the motherboard already. So if you're truly looking for the cheapest sollution for simple games like that, save your money and use a motherboard chipset. But if you ever plan to play future games and current games with higher graphical demands; the HD4850 is the minimum, and a great card. Go for the HD4870 if you can swing the extra cost. Above that, and you're not on a budget anymore.

      nVidia: Here, we have a larger specturm of cards because nVidia released a lot of budget cards and then slapped their flagship card from each release series. To make it simple, we'll just list the minimum muscle cards that are recommended. The 8800GT is the old muscle card and is still worth buying today. The 9800GT is the exact same card, rereleased. Literally, the same card. These cards still pump out the performance in today's demanding titles, like Crysis. That's testament as to how powerful they are, even being 2~3 years old. For example, at $89 retail for the 9800GT @ TigerDirect, this is one of the best performance cards per cost, especially if you're considering SLI as an option for high resolution gaming. Beyond this, the next step is the GTX260. For the money, the GTX260 is the best performer per cost. It recent hit the $200ish area @ NewEgg. The current flaship is the GTX280, and it is a powerful card, but you pay for it, and it's actually not significantly (read: real world noticably) faster than the GTX260 in current tites. Do not go below the 9800gt or 8800gt, ie, do not bother with the 9600, 9400, 8600 nor 8400. Do not buy those cards. So for the money, the 9800GT is your minimum buy, and the GTX260 is the recommended.

    • HDD:

    • The hard drive is way too often neglected when it comes to a gaming computer. On a casual machine, any modern drive will work perfectly. But in a gaming machine, everything is stored on the drive, accesed from the drive, and games per-load most of their content: hence their loading screens. Hard drive technology in terms of speed has not changed hardly at all over the past decade, while the other components have changed drastically over the years in speed. There are two very popular and easy options to address here though, and that's RAID0 (minimum) and Raptor. For the money, RAID0 is the best performance option. However, if you can afford the Raptor series drives (10,000rpm drives), they are faster per drive. Note that you can RAID0 with Raptors, to have the fastest consumer level drives--though it is very costly, and not recommended. A note on why RAID0 is faster and why it's cheaper. RAID0 takes a minimum of 2 drives, but has no maximum other than it's controller's maximum (and you won't be using more than 3 or 4 drives anyways, most folk just use 2 drives, and this is perfectly fine). RAID0 works by taking two or more drives and separates the data across the drives. Each drive works independently of the other, but to the system, they work as "one drive." Because the drives do separate work at the same time, the result is much faster performance. You will get noticable load time decreases in games. This is especially important in online games where timing and loading is critical.

      Suggested minimum is to get RAID0 with two drives. The actual capacity (storage size) is up to you. For a gaming machine, you don't need 1tb for example. Anything in the 160gig to 500gig should be perfectly fine. If you don't want to deal with RAID, the Raptor is the next recommended minimum. A single Raptor will do. The 150gig version is perfectly good for the money. The thing to take from this part is never  to get just a single 7200rpm normal drive. RAID0 or Raptor minimum.
      • The Rest: Everything else you choose will not have as much of an impact on performance. The rest is essentially what will tie these components together. Having a good power supply, good motherboard (one that will allow you to update components for example) and a solid amount of RAM (2 gigs is fine, but 4 gigs is better, and more is always better anwyays in memory), etc, will all be easy to keep cheap and still have a great performance computer for gaming.

        Notes on SLI and CrossFire:

        SLI and CrossFire are options for enthusiasts who are willing to spend twice the money on their videocards by purchasing two of them (identical) in order to get more performance from this option. This is actually not cost effective for the most part. But, depending on what kind of gaming you will be doing, is a real option and great for some application. The minimum requirements for SLI and CrossFire though assume the following:

        1. Do you have a high resolution monitor or HD tv? If so, SLI and CrossFire are an option for you. High resolution suggests resolutions above 1600x1200 and more likely upwards of 1920x1080, or 1080i/p if referring to a TV. If you game at lower resolutions than this on your display device, you will not receive hardly any gain in SLI or CrossFire and thus should not waste your money on it. But, if you do game at these resolutions, SLI and CrossFire can have large impacts and let you game at these high resolutions with all the quality settings pumped up.

        2. Power Supply has to support the power requirements of the cards. The HD4850 and 9800GT for example only require a single 6 pin power connection from the PSU, so a PSU with 2 x 6pin connectors will work for SLI or CrossFire on these cards. However, the moment you jump up to the HD4870, GTX260, and other cards between, you'll notice they require two 6 pin connectors each, which means two of these cards would need four total 6 pin power connectors. So pay attention to this when selecting a PSU. Just because something says it's SLI/Crossfire ready, even Quad ready, doesn't mean it will actually work on every set of cards. There are definite connection requirements that you must meet in order for it to work.

        Finally, note that not all games will actally beneift from SLI and CrossFire in a dramatic way, and in fact, some will actually perform worse. This is due to coding and drivers essentially. But know that the majority of modern games benefit from SLI and CrossFire at high resolutions.
         


        A CyberPower Example:

        If you'd like to see an example of the above information in action, such as assembling and customizing a gaming machine for cheap here at CyberPower, here's an example:

        Main Page, Mega Specials. The MegaSpecial II gives you the lowest price for the minimum components selected and free shipping. You'll note that most of the minimums are already covered: AMD5000~6000+, 2gigs of RAM, HD4850, good PSU, etc. The only thing needed to change for the minimums is the HDD setup, and that is a simple click to change it to RAID0 for two drives in RAID. After removing all the extra stuff, like the junk keyboard/mouse/cardreader/etc, the computer is a beast for gaming and comes out to about $700 depending on which computer case you choose to go with.

        And it will perform in almost all games at maximum resolution and quality settings as a computer that is twice the cost will. Remember, if you're gaming and at your highest settings you're not dipping below 30FPS, you won't notice the difference between that performance and a machine that never dips below 80~100FPS. That's not to say to build for only 30FPS at your settings in the games you want to play. That's simply to point out that you don't need to overspend for performance in the 100's of FPS since it actually has no real difference from something in the 40's and 50's. Your games will never surpass about 30FPS in terms of what you actually play and experience. Even if it's going at 100+ FPS, you'll only be seeing about 30FPS of that. That's the difference between having more than you need and having what you need with room to spare. How to judge and build on this? Read reviews & benchmarks of games at the settings you want to use, and see what hardware was needed to get that. That's your buying strategy.
         

         
        Part II:
         
        Displays (Monitor / TV) Information:
         
        Displays are actually pretty simple when it comes down to it. There is of course quality difference, but in the end, LCD's are simply not as good as the old CRT monitors in terms of gaming due to refresh rates. When you play a game at high resolution on a display device that is only refreshing at 60hz, you will see "clipping" in high movement environments. It's not a slow computer, it's not lag. It's the refresh rate and you're eyes are seeing more than one image at the same time as it quickly tries to draw the next, but can only do so at 60hz on most displays that are LCD technology. Old CRT monitors often could be set to 120hz at the same resolutions, and you'd not see that clipping effect (it looks like a studder).

        So I will keep it down to that when it comes to displays:

        Refresh Rate: This is the key to smooth video on your display. Often times, games look jerky or studder when things are moving fast. This is not lag, this is not your computer being slow (sometimes it is though, but it would be like that all the time and not just in high movement). It's your refresh rate of the display device unable to update the screen fast enough to make for a fluid motion that your eye cannot see. At 60hz, you can see it. At 120hz, typically you can't see it. The majority of TV's and LCD's out there only refresh at 60hz. This is why they're affordable. But a quality LCD and TV can refresh at 120hz. This is the sweet number you seek as a gamer who wants fluid motion.

        Note: when I say it's not a slow computer, what I mean is, if you are in a simple area and you move your "view" rapidly, if you see a jerk/studder, that's refresh rate not being fast enough. This assumes if you move it slowly, it does not jerk/studder. If ever wondering, use that as a test. And to make sure, lower the resolution and settings so that it runs extremely smooth; then test it by moving your "view" quickly and see if you notice the jerkiness or studders.

        Monitor or TV (Resolution is imperitive): Either will work. But the thing to pay attention to is resolution. Most LCD's will at least get to 1280x800/1024. This is a fine resolution for gaming. But if you want to unleash the goodness of your high end graphics cards, higher resolutions make for better images. And antialaising combined with high resolutions makes for the best image quality we can muster right now. So seek display devices that can achieve 1680x1050, and if you can, 1920x1080. These are easy to find when it comes to monitors. When it comes to a TV though, only a modern LCD/Plasma TV will hit these resolutions with HDMI input. There are 480p, 720p, 1080p LCD/Plasma televisions. The 720's are good for gaming, but the resolution is locked in "mid" range. It can be frustrating if you have a high end graphics card and you want to increase resolution and cannot due to the tv's limit. The 1080p LCD/Plasmas are the way to go if you are buying an HD capable TV. 1080p rating means it does 1920x1080 resolution. Now, the hard part is to find one that does that resolution and does 120hz refresh. The majority do not. There are 120hz refresh rate TV's though. They cost more, significantly. But if you're on the markget for a gaming display that is also fantastic for movies and evertyhing else involving a TV, getting one with a high refresh rate is ideal if you want quality when it comes to fluid motion.

        If on a budget for a display, go with an LCD monitor. A 20~22" can be had for around $200 with good properties these days (2008). If you really want higher end display though, monitors don't match a good high refresh plasma HDTV. But those cost close to a grand for even smaller ones.

        Other Properties:

        Response Time: This should be no higher than 5ms. At higher response times, you'll see a slight pause between what you do and what is displayed. 2ms is a good place to be. 5ms is ok. Higher, is not ok for gaming for the most part. People are sensitive in many ways, so this really comes down to you.

        Contrast Ratio: This is a number that you want to be very high. Higher ratios means better color and image regardless of where you're looking at it from. In a room with the windows open, you'll have trouble seeing an image if the contrast ratio is low. But if it's higher, you'll see the image more clearly. Your blacks and whites will be much more strong and clear, and all the colors in between. If you only game in a dark room, a lower contrast ratio will work. But if you play in lit rooms, you want it higher. So in general, go for the higher contrast ratios. High would be anything 10,000:1 or higher (ideally, 20,000 and 30,000 to 1).

        4:3 or Widscreen: 4:3 ratio monitors and TV's, also called "Standard Format" are pretty much phasing out. You don't see them often anymore. Only smaller LCD screens tend to come in 4:3 ratio anymore. Larger LCDs and all the new LCD/Plasma HD TV's are all WideScreen. This means the resolution ratio is 16:10 or 16:9, instead of 4:3. WideScreen is better for movies. It does not however give you an advantage in games in any way. Games are designed to have different "FOV" or "Fields of View" depending on the ratio of your resolution; they did this on purpose to prevent people from having massive wide screen resolutions wrapped aorund them to get an advantage in games. So don't think of WideScreen like it's going to help you out; you'll get no advantage other than it looks nicer in all things as it's more natural to have more horizontal view, than vertical view (you can see more from side to side with periphreal vision, than you can see up and down). WideScreen is the more natural resolution ratio to use.

        Brightness & Gloss: Gloss screens tend to be brighter and will give you a more crisp image. But the trade off is you get glares because it's a gloss surface, like glass for example, and will reflesh every other light in the room which takes away from that better image. Lots of new displays are tossing Gloss and going towards a more Matte finish, so that it reduces screen glare to minimums. If you game in the dark, gloss finish can be really beautiful. In you game in the light, avoid gloss, or you'll see glares everywhere. Over time, cheap LCD/TV's lose their brightness. Check the rated "bulb" life time that it has, rated in hours. Higher life time means longer brightness. You'll know your monitor/TV is about to become a paper weight if the picture starts to become dim over time after use. And that's a sign of cheap components; ie, not a quality display device.
         

         
        Part III:
         
        Input Devices (Keyboards & Mice):
        A question was asked, "Does the mouse/keyboard matter?"
        I believe it matters quite a bit. Especially for someone who wants to game.

        The way I see it, the way you input commands to your PC and the way you actually experience your PC are the two places where you should really put as much quality into the effect as you can, because frankly, that's where all your actual contact with the machine will happen. A cheap display, cheap input devices, etc, really make or break a good computing experience when using a decent machine to begin with.

        Gaming rated input devices are a market hype. When it comes to a keyboard, just get what feels good. I'm very much of the opinion that one should test and feel out a mouse/keyboard before ever buying it. Everyone's senses are different, so you need to find something that is comfortable and really responds the way you like it. So don't look at gaming stuff. Just look at everything available to you, and seek out places where you can see some of these things.

        I'm sort of a nut when it comes to input devices. I've gone through a lot of keyboards and mice. I buy new mice pretty much monthly as I'll try something and feel like I like it, and then after a few weeks, realize that over time it just wasn't comfortable or didn't respond the way I wanted it to. But, after numerous shots in the dark with various "popular" keyboards and mice, I found two that really suit me personally. So naturally, I'll recommend them to others, but that doesn't mean they'll work for you or someone else the way they work for me.
         
        First of all, the difference between Wireless and Wired. Right away, Wireless will cost you more and not actually be as responsive and solid as your wired options. The reason is the technology used to get the wireless effect. If it's infrared, just write it off as garbage--it requires line of sight and has short range, very bad. If it's bluetooth, you're doing good, it operates at 2.4ghz, just like your phones, and will have a strong signal up to 30 feet away easily. The next thing about wireless devices is batteries. They either suck, and cost you, or are excellent and cost you. Basic rule of thumb: do not buy any wireless device that does not use rechargable lithium batteries. You don't want anything that uses AA or AAA batteries. Forget that. Even if they're rechargable. They have terrible life span and don't hold charges over time. Also, batteries get pricey to replace. Also, changing out a battery mid game is pretty much "game over" if it's an online game. For gaming purposes, you're best off with Wired input devices to avoid downtime and batteries. Also, wireless devices have a slight lag to them; in some higher quality ones, it's not noticable (on a keyboard) but you will notice the lag time on wireless mice--even good ones, in a fast paced precision FPS game, you will notice the difference between a wired and wireless mouse. You should be using wired in this case. If you're just casually RPGing or MMOing, you can get away with a wireless mouse just fine though. The keyboard is the easiest one to go wireless with; but frankly, if it's not all wireless, then no point having just one wireless device as you'll have wires some where anyways. Wireless is more an option for someone in the living room on the TV anyways, instead of at a desk with a computer monitor. That said, I'll only cover wired options because I don't think wireless options are good enough for solid gaming yet; not even the latest/best logitech wireless stuff. I recommend Wired.

        Wired Keyboard: Razor Lycos. This keyboard is quality. I've gone through a lot of keyboards that cost way too much money, and this keyboard is not cheap by any means, but you can feel it when you use it. It's relatively quiet to type on (it doesn't clank like cheap boards). It's completely back-lit (blue). I love this because the letters don't rub off over time (every other keyboard I've had that had the letters printed on the keys, they rubbed off over time; I do a lot of typing and simple hand oil and friction removes that stuff). The best part of the board is, however, the actual material. The keys not hard plastic. They're a hard rubber instead. The feel is completely different, and way more comfortable. You grip those keys. If you've ever played a game extensively or typed extensively, you slide around eventually on keys as your hand oil builds up. But on rubber keys, you don't slide. It grips. So for these features, I love the keyboard. On a side note, the keyboard has a USB2.0 hub built in, and it has a jack for microphones so that you can extend it from your PC for a gamer with a headset, and it has a built in media control so you can command your MP3's in the background without having to leave your game, etc, to do it. Handy features, though I don't use them; I just like the coating of the keys and the feel of the board.

        Wired Mouse: Logitech G5. I have too many mice, because I always get new ones, and I have multiple computers and have mice for each. Both wireless and wired. I used to enjoy the Razor series of gaming mice, but they can be pricey and really I don't like the hoaky software they use (even though they have nice rubber grips). However, after I picked up the G5, all my other mice just took a big vacation to the shelf. Far and away the best mouse I've used, ever, when it comes to a wired mouse. I thought it looked a little funny at first, but after using it for a while, I just didn't even care. First of all, the buttons. They're crisp and tight. It has the main two buttons, but then two more on the thumb side, and two more on top for DIP settings on the fly. Plus the scroll wheel. Programable and a good software interface. The cord. It's not your typcal rubber. Its cord is housed in a nylon sheath. It doesn't get hung on things, it's very tough. The DIP of the mouse is great, I use it at mid-DPI setting as it's just my preference. My main love for the mouse though comes from one thing: weight. Mice feel cheap to me when they're too light. Light mice made of light material are noisy when I click, they slide around and sound bad to me, and when you let them go, sometimes the cord weighs more and drags the mouse around a bit. That irritates me. But the G5 is a heavy mouse and on top of that, comes with weights. That's right. It comes with a tin of several weights. And it has an insert that goes in the mouse so that you can adjust the weight of the mouse in increments of 1.7 and 4.5 grams. And it takes up to 8 weights. They give you 16 weights, 8 1.7's and 8 4.5's. I use all 8 4.5's because I like it heavy. And boy is it heavy with those weights. It feels so solid and it's like moving a brick that glides effortlessly on my desk. That heavy feel for my heavy hands, feels great. And in games, when I need to be precise with movement, that high DPI with that heavy feel together makes for a deadly combination. Simply the best mouse I've ever touched. Love it. And at only like $45, there's no reason not to give it a whirl.

        -- In the end, these devices come down to you and how they feel to your use. They are the translation of your command to the computer. If they feel crappy, it'll suck to use your machine. At least when I use machines and they have cheap keyboards, I really hate to use them. And a cheap mouse just feels awful even to browse the net with. So I generally recommend getting quality equipment here. Kind of like putting cheap tires on your car; not worth it.
         


        Part IV:

        Additional Information & Threads of Interest:
        More information will be added as things arise.

        After you get your machine, there will be plenty of `upgrading' to do over time. Or perhaps you were a good bargain shopper and got your machine and RAM separate (since RAM is so dirt cheap these days). Any informative or helpful threads can be listed here as reference for folk after they build a system or during a system build; whether or not they get it here at C.P., or some where else.

        Installing RAM:
        Picked up some new RAM? Ready to install it? Never done that before?
        >>> Read: Installing RAM, a Picture Tutorial




        Very best, Smile


        Edited by @power - 12 Feb 2009 at 3:20pm
        IP IP Logged
        Salan
        Senior Member
        Senior Member
        Avatar

        Joined: 03 Aug 2008
        Location: United States
        Online Status: Offline
        Posts: 3110
        bullet Posted: 28 Nov 2008 at 10:19am
        Hi Mal
         
        Really excellent, a must read for budget gamers and newbees trying to learn.  I think that you should bump it every so often so it does not get lost in new threads.  Kuddos for the obvious great deal of work and thought putting the post together.
         
        Alan
         
        HI, I clicked on the read this link on your signature line and it brought me here, so forget the bump recommendation, good idea.


        Edited by Salan - 28 Nov 2008 at 10:22am
        CM HAF
        I7 950
        Zalman 9900LED
        EVGA Classifed
        12G Corsair Dom 1600
        2 X BFG 285 OCXs
        1500W Silverstone Strider
        2 x Intel 80G X-25-M in Raid 0
        LG BR Bnr, LG DVD Bnr
        2 x WD 1T Blk
        W7 Ult 64 Bit
        IP IP Logged
        masters12
        Senior Member
        Senior Member
        Avatar

        Joined: 24 Nov 2008
        Location: United States
        Online Status: Offline
        Posts: 325
        bullet Posted: 29 Nov 2008 at 12:56am
        I agree, that was great info for a newb like me. I will definetally use it everytime i look at a computer and when i make my own.
        MSI K9N SLI-F V.2 AM2 NFORCE 570 MB
        WINDOW VISTA HOME PREMIUM 64BIT SP1
        OEM AMD X2 6000 AM2
        ULTRA CYBERPOWER 800W POWER SUPPLY
        8GB Corsair XMS2
        3x250GB SATA II
        X-Telstar Jr.
        9800gt 512mb DDR3
        IP IP Logged
        masters12
        Senior Member
        Senior Member
        Avatar

        Joined: 24 Nov 2008
        Location: United States
        Online Status: Offline
        Posts: 325
        bullet Posted: 29 Nov 2008 at 1:27am
        Also can u talk about monitors too? It seems sum ppl are having troubes about choosing a monitor and i was wondering if that would increas or decrease the gaming sensation.
        MSI K9N SLI-F V.2 AM2 NFORCE 570 MB
        WINDOW VISTA HOME PREMIUM 64BIT SP1
        OEM AMD X2 6000 AM2
        ULTRA CYBERPOWER 800W POWER SUPPLY
        8GB Corsair XMS2
        3x250GB SATA II
        X-Telstar Jr.
        9800gt 512mb DDR3
        IP IP Logged
        MalVeauX
        Senior Member
        Senior Member
        Avatar

        Joined: 11 Aug 2008
        Location: United States
        Online Status: Offline
        Posts: 1155
        bullet Posted: 29 Nov 2008 at 3:07am
        Originally posted by masters12

        Also can u talk about monitors too? It seems sum ppl are having troubes about choosing a monitor and i was wondering if that would increas or decrease the gaming sensation.


        Heya,
         
        Certianly; I've moved the information to the first post and added it to the entire thread. Thanks for the question opportunity, it was a great one to add on with.
         
        Very best,


        Edited by MalVeauX - 30 Nov 2008 at 9:18am
        Interested in a GAMING machine? READ THIS.
        IP IP Logged
        masters12
        Senior Member
        Senior Member
        Avatar

        Joined: 24 Nov 2008
        Location: United States
        Online Status: Offline
        Posts: 325
        bullet Posted: 29 Nov 2008 at 11:59pm

        Thank you MASTER MAL for the excellent info. i will use it everytime i buy a computer and monitor

        MSI K9N SLI-F V.2 AM2 NFORCE 570 MB
        WINDOW VISTA HOME PREMIUM 64BIT SP1
        OEM AMD X2 6000 AM2
        ULTRA CYBERPOWER 800W POWER SUPPLY
        8GB Corsair XMS2
        3x250GB SATA II
        X-Telstar Jr.
        9800gt 512mb DDR3
        IP IP Logged
        Cyber_Tech
        Admin Group
        Admin Group
        Avatar

        Joined: 23 Apr 2008
        Online Status: Offline
        Posts: 4863
        bullet Posted: 03 Dec 2008 at 10:01am
        Mal...Great work...Thanks for the POST .....Thumbs%20Up
        Regards Cyber_tech
        Tech Support 888-900-5180/877-876-4965 or 626-869-0228.
        Email:techsupport@cyberpowerpc.com
        Please email rma.status@cyberpowerpc.com for status checks on RMA or repairs.
        IP IP Logged
        chef_i_am
        Newbie
        Newbie


        Joined: 05 Dec 2008
        Location: Australia
        Online Status: Offline
        Posts: 5
        bullet Posted: 05 Dec 2008 at 7:18pm

        Wow MalVeauX! This is an impressive piece of prose! You can tell that you've put a lot of time and effort into it.

         

        Hmm, sooo, you've inspired me and now I'm looking to build my next rig. I was wondering if you'd be able to help me out? It's more the little things (ie. Which case is best for what I have in mind? Which MOBO is the perfect match for the HD4870? Etc.)

         

        PM me if you can.

         

        Cheers mate.

        IP IP Logged
        MalVeauX
        Senior Member
        Senior Member
        Avatar

        Joined: 11 Aug 2008
        Location: United States
        Online Status: Offline
        Posts: 1155
        bullet Posted: 05 Dec 2008 at 7:28pm
        Chef_I_Am,

        We're all here to help you friend. Just make a post in the Build & Compatibility board (this board). Plenty of folk with differing opinions will give you a good chunk to think on; and we'll see ya there--list out all your parts of course that you already have, or just give an idea of what you'd like to do.

        Very best,
        Interested in a GAMING machine? READ THIS.
        IP IP Logged
        Harrison11106
        Senior Member
        Senior Member


        Joined: 06 Dec 2008
        Location: United States
        Online Status: Offline
        Posts: 124
        bullet Posted: 06 Dec 2008 at 11:59am
        To the OP.  Good stuff, but what about power supply?  How relevent is that for wanting a gaming machine?  What is a good ratio of Battery/power supply to the graphics card & other components?  What're some decent brands? I got a Thermaltake ToughPower 600 Watt Power Supply - Quad SLI Ready for my own mid tower (3870 Radeon on a DDR3 converted unit). 
         
         
        IP IP Logged
        Page  of 7 Next >>
        Post Reply Post New Topic
        Printable version Printable version

        Forum Jump
        You cannot post new topics in this forum
        You cannot reply to topics in this forum
        You cannot delete your posts in this forum
        You cannot edit your posts in this forum
        You cannot create polls in this forum
        You cannot vote in polls in this forum